Add Actives C20 Tetraforce Activator is an extremely concentrated oil-based serum containing the most stable form of Vitamin C and many powerful natural antioxidants. The combination of all the ingredients improves the appearance of the skin, protects the skin from the harmful effects of radicals, thus slowing down the process of photoageing, brightens hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and generally improves skin texture.

A short recap on Vitamin C

Vitamin C or L-ascorbic acid is a water soluble vitamin that is a major antioxidant in the aquatic environment of the cell. Unlike plants and some animals, humans are unable to synthesize vitamin C alone due to the absence of a particular enzyme. Even if high levels of Vitamin C are introduced into the body through oral supplements, only a small portion of vitamin C will be biologically active in the skin. Therefore, the amount of vitamin C in the skin needs to be taken care of with topically applied cosmetic products.

Vitamin C is available in many active forms. Of all the forms, L-ascorbic acid is the most biologically active and well researched. However, L-ascorbic acid is a hydrophilic and highly unstable molecule. Due to its hydrophilicity it penetrates the skin very poorly. It forms an acidic solution in water, which can be very irritating to the skin.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate – a very stable and effective form of Vitamin C

The Add Actives C20 Tetraforce Activator contains a special form of vitamin C called tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a very stable derivative of vitamin C, which, unlike L-ascorbic acid, is soluble in oil. The solubility in the oil allows the compound to penetrate deeper into the skin. It has antioxidant properties and inhibits lipid peroxidation.

Is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate really effective in the Add Actives C20 Tetraforce Activator?

Producer studies have shown that this form of vitamin C, at a concentration of 0.1%, reduces melanin synthesis by 80% and increases collagen synthesis by 50% in vitro. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate at 10% concentration removes age spots at 16 weeks and in vivo improves acne skin status in 80% of patients. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate increases collagen synthesis by two-fold compared to ascorbic acid. At the same time, it also better inhibits enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases that break down collagen and hyaluronic acid.

These are the effects that this vitamin C derivative exerts at stated concentrations. In the Add Actives C20 Tetraforce Activator, however, the concentration of this derivative is as high as 20%.

A miracle blend of the most powerful antioxidants known

Although tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate is a very powerful antioxidant, other antioxidants are added to support its action. The formulation also includes:

  • Coenzyme Q10 – an enzyme antioxidant that supports the body’s internal defense system and protects mitochondria. It prevents lipid peroxidation and effectively protects against UVA-induced oxidative stress.
  • Alpha-lipoic acid – an effective reactive oxygen scavenger, reducing melanin production and preventing photo-oxidative damage.
  • Tocopherols and Tocotrienols (Vitamin E) – a radical scavenger in lipophilic parts of the cell, topically applied Vitamin E protects the skin from UV damage and the carcinogenic effect of UV radiation.
  • Pomegranate seed and fruit extracts – extracts are rich in vitamin C and polyphenols, which provide a powerful antioxidant effect.
  • Pomegranate Seed Extract – contains some flavonoids and anthocyanidins and has an antioxidant effect that is three times greater than the antioxidant activity of green tea extract; provides effective protection against free radicals.

The main active substance carrier is squalane

The main star of Add Actives Tetraforce Activator is the squalane. Why? It delivers all the excellent ingredients to your skin and, due to its lipophilic nature, allows them to penetrate to deeper layers of the skin. Squalane is a dense, oil-like fluid. It is a derivative of squalene, which is a natural component of human sebum. When we are born, there is about 12% squalene in our skin, which decreases with age, resulting in dry skin.

We use squalane instead of squalene because the latter is very unstable. Squalane is  similar in structure to long hydrocarbon chains that exhibit occlusal effect. It has excellent emollient properties, prevents transepidermal water loss or moisture loss and improves skin suppleness.

How Functional is the Add Actives C20 Tetraforce Activator?

The Add Actives serum comes in a black package that prevents light from accessing the serum itself, since light could cause the light sensitive compounds to decay. The serum is oil-based and orange in color.

It comes in two sizes, 30ml and 10ml, with a shelf life of about 6 months from opening. Although the packaging comes with a pump, which prevents the product from opening and supplying air, nevertheless antioxidants have a certain life span that must be adhered to. 30 ml serum is quite a big stock for 6 months, unless you are sharing and using it daily.

What is my experience with Add Actives C20 Tetraforce Activator and when do I use it?

At this point I must first emphasize that I am really proud that such great products come from our little Slovenia. And this serum overcomes all serums with Vitamin C. Products with similar ingredients, but not as concentrated and not in such proportions in America, reach 2 or even 3 times higher prices.

Tetraforce exceeded my expectations, both in effect and texture. It is an oily serum, which does not grease the skin and is absorbed practically like a cream. A few minutes after application, there is no oily feeling on the skin.

I mix one serum pump in the cream every morning and apply it on my face. There are several reasons I use serum in the morning. The first is that I’m already using a lot of products in the evening and I don’t want to over do my routine. At the same time, I must point out that Tetraforce is not acid compatible, but you can layer it over retinoids. The second reason is that the antioxidant serum supports the action of the sunscreen, further protecting the skin from radicals. Of course, you can also use it in the evening.

Since I have been using it regularly, I have noticed a more unified complexion, both in texture and complexion. I have quite a few freckles myself that have been in certain places since I can remember and have never tried to actually get rid of them. After using the Tetraforce serum, I noticed that the freckles were brighter.

The biggest victory of this serum, however, is that it also helps to fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentations (these usually remain at the sites of acne and pimple healing). Whenever I had a pimple outbreak, I was left with a little sea of ​​PIH that I couldn’t get rid of. When I had an acne outbreak about a month ago, of course, I was expecting post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, but this time I don’t have one!

Is Tetraforce really worth buying?

I would say yes. The price is salty, but the quality of the ingredients in this product is at the highest possible level, and at the same time, as I mentioned, serums with such ingredients are much more expensive in America. The ingredients are carefully selected and added in very high concentrations for maximum effect. Some of the ingredients are also organic. Especially for beginners, when using the Add Actives C20 Tetraforce Activator, I advise you to start by applying it every 2 to 3 days to get your skin accustomed to being a strong asset. You can then increase the number of days you use the serum.

This post was created because of my own satisfaction with the product, but the Add Actives C20 Tetraforce Activator was donated for testing purposes by Beautybottled.si, where you can also buy it.

Sources:

  • Lotion Crafter. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. https://lotioncrafter.com/products/tetrahexyldecyl-ascorbate
  • Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients9(8), 866.
  • McDaniel, D. H., Waugh, J. M., Jiang, L. I., Stephens, T. J., Yaroshinsky, A., Mazur, C., Nelson, D. B. (2019). Evaluation of the Antioxidant Capacity and Protective Effects of a Comprehensive Topical Antioxidant Containing Water-soluble, Enzymatic, and Lipid-soluble Antioxidants. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology12(4), 46–53.
  • Lykkesfeldt, J., Michels, A. J., & Frei, B. (2014). Vitamin C. Advances in nutrition (Bethesda, Md.)5(1), 16–18.
  • Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology10(7), 14–17.
  • Lupo, M. P. (2001). Antioxidants and vitamins in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology, 19(4), 467–473.

Ever since my hair had been dyed, I have been paying much more attention to what products I will apply to them. Butters will impress even the most demanding user. In this post in Slovenian Cosmetics, I will introduce two new Butters products, namely Natural Hair Intensive Care Mask and Leave-in Hair Mask.

Why use a hair mask at all?

First, it is necessary to distinguish between conditioner and hair masks. Namely, almost all female users use the conditioners, but the use of the mask is not so common. Hair conditioners are almost essential for hair care as they restore the structure of the hair and affect its appearance. In particular, conditioners make combing easier, reduce hair electricity and repair hair structure.

However, if you want really soft and shiny hair, your friend will also be a hair mask. The use of hair masks is primarily recommended for people with dry, split and dyed hair. Unlike conditioners, hair masks are prepared with oils, butters and other nourishing ingredients. Masks are usually left on the hair longer than balms, giving better effects after one use.

Butters masks are formulated with specially nourishing ingredients

Both Intensive Care Mask and Leave-in Hair Mask contain shea butter, CBD extract, hydrolysed wheat proteins, Vitamin B5 (panthenol). The Leave-in mask also contains hydrolyzed keratin.

Shea Butter

Shea Butter is great for hair care as it revitalizes dry and light hair. Shea butter is it’s own source of moisture and vitamins. It can be used on both hair and scalp. It moisturizes dry, scaly scalp and damaged hair from root to tip, leading to faster hair growth.

CBD Extract

Both CBD and hemp oil are able to control excess sebum production and reduce inflammation. They also show antibacterial benefits to the scalp. CBD extract is rich in vitamins, which is great for the care of dry and brittle hair.

Hydrolyzed proteins

Why not just use ordinary proteins? Proteins are huge molecules that, because of their size, cannot penetrate the inside of hair, but can only remain on their surface. The process called hydrolysis transforms the protein molecules to become smaller. Smaller protein molecules can pass into the hair structure where they bind to cracks in the hair structure. Cracks in the hair structure usually result from chemical or thermal treatment of the hair. Hydrolyzed proteins bind to cracks to temporarily repair hair structure.

Vitamin B5 – panthenol

Panthenol is not only a moisturizer, it is also a great emollient. It is evenly distributed over the surface of the hair, where it forms a smooth film. This film makes the hair shinier while also allowing excellent gliding between the hair, making it easier to comb. Panthenol can also penetrate the inside of the hair, where it helps retain moisture and provides volume.

Is the mask suitable for all hair types?

Most of all, people who deal with oily scalp have a probles with hair masks. For people with drier hair, a mask is a great choice to add the missing lipids into the scalp and repair the hair structure. People with oily scalp have the problem of excreting large amounts of sebum on the scalp, which makes the hair look oily and hair washing is more frequent on a schedule. Rarely does anyone have the problem of having their hair greasy over its entire length.

Since I also have oily scalp I have good advice for you so you can still use a hair mask. It is easy, just try to avoid applying the mask to the scalp, distributing it only at the tips of the hair. When washing, avoid contact with the scalp and rinse your hair with lukewarm water. Why lukewarm water? Hot water stimulates the sebaceous glands and more sebum will be released into the scalp!

Butters Intensive Hair Mask

Texture

The mask comes in a 250 ml crucible in which you reach for the product by hand. So, the classic and also the most convenient mask container since it makes dosing easy. The mask is very rich and, as a result, very dense, but fluffy. It’s as fluffy as whipped eggs and butter (if you bake you know what I’m talking about!). You need very little product because of it’s richness.

Applying and mask miracles

It is easy to apply to the entire length of your hair. I only apply it to the tips, since my oily scalp would have complained sooner if I had hoped for more than the tips. I leave it between 3 to 5min to do its magic. I have had quite a few hair masks already, but the effect this mask has cannot be compared to any other. Even when you wash mask off your hair, they are silky soft and easy to comb.

Effect and smell

Why did I combine the two? Usually, hair products have a smell, but when you wash it out of your hair, it will get lost. However, this is not the case with this mask. The smell, according to my personal interpretation, is oatmeal with honey. It smells divine to me and the scent persists after washing.

The effect of this mask is immediate. As I mentioned above, masks are here for immediate effect. However, in addition to its immediate effect, long-term use is the one that will make your hair softer, healthier and shinier. After using the Butters mask, the hair is soft, easily combed, is shiny, and the tips look less split.

Butters Leave-in hair mask

This mask is intended to be applied after washing your hair as it does not need to be rinsed off. It can be applied immediately after washing as extra care or between two hair washes to improve the appearance and structure of your hair. The mask can be used to quickly refresh and enhance the shine of your hair.

The mask comes in 50 ml packs with a pump, which makes it easy to dispense, but at the same time, due to its size, it is also suitable for a bag. You know, just when you need a nice haircut, one hair goes on it’s own. Well, with this mask you will no longer have these problems, as it will smooth out your hair.

Does it grease your hair?

It simply spreads over the surface of the hair and makes it more radiant. However, it is very important that it does not weigh the hair and give them a greasy appearance. Because I have a very oily scalp myself, I was scared that this would grease my hair even more, but if you apply the product only to the tips it will not happen. My time between washes still remains the same. The smell is the same as the rinse mask.

The effect

The purpose of this product is to nourish and smooth the hair during the washes, when the hair is already tired from external factors.

The publication was created in collaboration with company Kinezika. Natural Hair Intensive Care Mask and Leave-in Hair Mask are available at Butters.si.

Don’t forget to check out my Instagram account for a discount code!

Skinfairytale sent two new products to the market before the summer and these are the natural body makeup Chocotan and the natural Aftersun lotion. Why is natural Chocotan a better choice than classic self-tanning product and what kind of wonders does the Aftersun lotion do?

Hair is exposed to chemical and mechanical stress and stress from the environment daily. All this leaves the consequences of hair, such as weaker, brittle hair and lost hair shine. For the purpose of restoring the hair surface, we use cosmetic hair restoration products, especially hair balms. This time, in Slovenian cosmetics, we represent the brand Eterika, which created the entire line of hair restoration products.

First, some hair facts

Human hair is naturally the same as all epidermal appendix that are typical of mammals. Their main function is to protect the body from external factors. The scalp differs from the skin on other parts of the body, as it is full of large hair follicles from which long hair fibers grow. A large sebaceous gland is attached to each of the hair fibers. Each hair is composed of the shaft, the cortex and the core. The shaft of the hair is an envelope that protects against the ingress of water and consists of several layers of cells that overlap like tiles.

Straight and curly hair are composed of different cells

Two types of cells are present in the cortex: orthocortic and paracortic. Paracortic cells having a higher density are more resistant to moisture and are characterized by flat hair, and lower-density orthocortic cells are more sensitive to moisture and are characteristic of curly hair.

Chemical composition of hair

Like other tissues, hair is also made mostly from proteins. The hair consists of 85% keratin, which has a very high content of sulfur-containing amino acids (15% cystine). Hair fibers consist of 1-3% lipids, trace metal ions (aluminum, chromium, calcium, magnesium), water and pigments.

Fun facts about hair

Hair has two basic properties—strength and elasticity. It is remarkably resistant; a single hair fiber can carry a weight of 100 g without breaking, and can extend by 20–30% when dry and 100% when wet without breaking. This resistance is due to the presence, composition and organization of the cortex protein keratin.

Hair damage and how to deal with repairing the hair structure

The number of consumers with damaged hair continues to grow due to external factors. There appear:

mechanical damage: combing, hair straighteners

chemical damage: hair dyeing and bleaching

environmental damage: sun, pollution

Hair after this kind of damage needs to be corrected at several levels from the middle of the cortex to the shaft. Hair conditioners are usually composed of filmmakers, such as silicones. The filmmakers cover their hair with a fine waterproof layer and thus slow down or prevent the penetration of active substances into the hair’s interior.

The role of hair conditioners

Hair conditioners restore the structure and affect the appearance of hair. Also, the use of hair conditioners can make it easier to comb and reduce the tension between hairs. Balms also increase the shine and volume of the hair and improve their structure. Among the hair restoration ingredients are mostly cationic surfactants such as stearalkonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, dicytilimony chloride, PEG-2 cocochromic chloride and others.

The texture of the hair can also be restored in a completely natural way. In the case of Eterika, Anja created as many as 3 natural hair balms. The most important ingredients of Eterika’s Balm are emollients. These are lipophilic substances that give hair a shine. Emollients are distributed over the hair to form a transparent film that repels water.

Main ingredients in Eterika conditioners

Coconut oil

Aside from making a great moisturizer for hair and scalp, the oil has been used as a natural remedy to combat frizz, get rid of dandruff, remove and prevent lice and promote hair growth. Its antibacterial properties may ward off folliculitis, an infection of the hair follicles, and may also fight fungal infections, such as ringworm of the scalp.

Funfact: Did it ever happen to you, that you got a chewing gum in your hair? Coconut oil can even be used to extract chewing gum from hair.

While pure coconut oil can improve scalp health, therefore improving the conditions for growing thicker, fuller hair, it does not treat the underlying cause of hair loss and cannot be relied on for treating baldness related to dihydrotestosterone.

Argan oil

Argan oil is a versatile oil that helps hydrate and soften the hair. Argan oil is rich in oleic and linoleic acid, but also contains high levels of squalene and vitamin E, which act as antioxidants. Argan oil should naturally increase the elasticity of the hair and consistently renew the shine of the hair. Vitamin E is a lipophilic antioxidant that protects against free radicals. Lately, vitamin E is said to be an ‘anti-pollution’ component, as it should prevent harmful effects of the environment.

Behentrimonium methosulfate

This ingredient in derived from rapeseed oil. It is a very mild yet effective ingredient known for it’s de-tangling and hair thickening properties. Because this ingredient directly deposits onto the hair follicle to smooth out the cuticles, it’s highly regarded for its conditioning abilities. It can be found in many hair products like conditioner, detangler, shampoo and styling gel. It also acts as an emulsifying agent, gentle enough to be used in baby products that are left on the skin. When used in lotions and creams, it gives a soft and powdery after-touch to the skin.

Kako uporabljati balzame za lase?

Po umivanju lase utremo z brisačo, da zmanjšamo navlaženost las. Balzam razporedimo po dolžini las in počakamo nekaj minut za boljši učinek (3-5 min). Nato balzam izperemo. Pri suhih laseh lahko nanesemo balzam po celotni dolžini las, pri mastnih pa le po konicah, saj bo drugače balzam preveč zmastil že tako mastno lasišče. Pri zelo suhih laseh je skoraj nujna uporaba mask za lase.

Nasvet za najboljši možen učinek balzama: Balzam nanesemo na za dlje časa, lahko tudi čez noč, tako da lase zavijemo v vlažno brisačo ali plastično folijo. V balzam pa lahko kapneš tudi nekaj kapljic keratina.

Najina izkušnja z Eterika balzami

Na voljo so trije balzami in sicer za vse tipe las z vonjem vanilije, proti razcepljenim in suhim konicam s pelargonijo in sivko ter za neukrotljive lase s kokosom. Glede na to, da gre za balzam ima zelo bogato teksturo, v bistvu je že skoraj kot maska. Po uporabi se lasje zelo enostavno razčešejo in so mehki, ter sijoči. Da o vonju ne govorimo, saj zelo lepo dišijo, vonj pa se na laseh obdrži še kar nekaj časa.

Celotno ponudbo izdelkov Eterika si lahko ogledaš tukaj.

This time in the Slovenian cosmetics category we’ll get to know Skinfairytale. It’s been released to the cosmetic market with a different purpose, which is: to relieve the skin condition in patients with dermatitis. To be clear Skinfairytale products are not only for those with skin diseases but also for those who are fighting with dry skin and various allergies.

What is atopic dermatitis?

Atopic dermatitis is an inflammatory disease that can be inherited or because we have a predisposition for it. It can be stimulated by several factors, among which are stress and various allergies. The most visible problem in atopic dermatitis is eczema, which is usually red and rough if we touch it. A slightly less visible, but very annoying problem in patients with dermatitis is itch.

Individuals with dermatitis usually have a damaged skin barrier, which means that the substances we get in contact with easily get into/out our skin. It sounds great, but if it’s easier for good things to pass, bad ones (allergens, irritant substances) also pass. As problematic substances pass easier, there is a greater chance that they will cause immune reactions in the skin. In case we get in contact with an allergen or an irritant the inflammatory cells are activated, causing inflammation.

My atopic dermatitis before and 3 days after using Skinfairytale AtopicBalm

Why is Skinfairytale so special?

Skinfairytale is a cosmetic line that was first formulated to treat atopic skin. The market is currently flooded with products that are supposed to be adapted to atopic skin, but checking on ingredients often reveals the content of potentially irritant substances that can only worsen the condition. Skinfairytale is another story.

Atopia is nowadays a growing problem, according to some studies it affects 20-25% of children. The frequency of this disease decreases by age. Usually disappears until 5 years of age.

We both got atopic dermatitis in adulthood, unfortunately. Probably because of stress. It’s not a severe form, but still very disturbing. During exam time outbreaks are more frequent and the attacks of itching are on a daily basis (especially before bedtime).

And now serious businesses. We’ll describe the products that we’ve tested and their most important ingredients that benefit the atopic skincare.

Atopic BALM

Calamine

Calamine is a combination of zinc oxide and 0.5 % iron oxide. It’s an ingredient that shows antiseptic and astringent properties. It’s proven to reduce pruritus and skin irritation. Calamine is the most effective while evaporating from the skin because it cools down. After only one application, it offers long-lasting effect, so it calms the skin down.

Mango butter

Mango butter is rich in linoleic acid, which has anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties. In addition, it shows also antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. It’s very easy for application and very soft for our skin.

Cannabis extract

It contains 3 most important fatty acids for the skin. These are α-linolenic and γ-linolenic acid and linoleic. They act anti-inflammatory and/or regenerative. In addition, it also contains arachidonic acid that reduces inflammation and helps to heal the wounds.

AtopicCREAM

Black cumin oil

Linoleic acid represents half of the fatty acid composition of the oil. The essential in this oil acts antimicrobial. This prevents the invasion of microorganisms through a weakened skin barrier and prevents inflammation. The oil can also be used for oily skin because it supports normal skin action and doesn’t leave grassy feeling.

Evening primrose oil

It’s a gold standard for anti-age skincare and it’s more and more recommended for the care of atopic dermatitis. It contains 74% linoleic acid and 10% γ-linolenic it contains also phytosterols that help restore the skin barrier. Because of the fatty acid composition, this oil works anti-inflammatory and regenerative.

Zinc sulfate

Local zinc and its salts are used as photoprotective agents, for calming down or as a substance in anti-dandruff shampoos. The use of zinc salts is now used also in many dermatological conditions, including infections (warts), inflammatory dermatoses (acne vulgaris, rosacea), pigmentation disorders (melasma) and neoplasia (baseline cancer). It has antimicrobial and astringent properties.

ProtectBALM

Katarina from Skinfairytale also made Protect Balm, which is not so much for atopic dermatitis, but for several different skin problems. As the name itself says it protects the skin. Especially if we have some dry areas (lips, elbows …) or some scratches, etc. It also protects the pregnant belly, before the stretch marks and cracks appear.

Jojoba oil

This oil is very similar to human sebum. Why is that important? Because our body recognizes oil as part of the skin and for that reason doesn’t cause allergies or unwanted interactions. It works anti-inflammatory and can be used for several skin conditions, from aging to healing wounds. It also helps other active ingredients to absorb quickly, precisely because the body recognizes the oil as its own.

Squalane

While squalene acts antioxidant the squalene derivative squalane shows moisturizing properties. It’s a very good emollient and is absorbed into the skin, which gives us a light feeling on the skin. It can also work as an occlusive and makes a layer on the skin, which also prevents evaporation of the water and keeps more water inside the skin. At the same time, it works as a physical barrier for substances from the outside, which can not enter the skin that easy.

Allantoin

First of all, allantoin acts as a moisturizer and it also helps wounds to heal faster and calms the skin down.

Choice of atopic care products

People with skin diseases must be careful when choosing cosmetic products. It is recommended not to use products that contain fragrances, dyes or many preservatives.

Atopic balm is pink, I’ve made a very strange grimace, because I thought Skinfairytale missed a very important rule – the products should not contain colorants. But because of the content of calamine, which is slightly pink, the balm is colored, but unintentionally and doesn’t harm, because the color is not artificially added.

A slightly different world, as we usually mention, right? We mostly struggle with wrinkles, pigment stains, and greasy/dry skin. Atopia is a completely different problem and we almost don’t talk about it. Many don’t take it seriously. The disease is curable and with the right choice of the products, we can improve the stage of the disease.

What is our experience with Skinfairytale products?

First of all, we were a little in doubt about how these creams can help us when sometimes even corticosteroids (systemic medicaments for atopia) can’t help us. At the first attack of the itch, we have put some Atopicbalm and the pruritus disappeared. We couldn’t believe it because for us it was already completely normal to scratch almost until the bleeding before going to bed. We don’t have this problem anymore. After the first application, we thought that it was just a coincidence, but at the next application we found that this is always like that, itching disappears, end of the story.

Protect the balm is very useful for some of the slightest abrasions. From an exercise, I was doing on concrete I had irritated the skin on my palms and knees. The skin was reddish and burning sensation. After using Atopic balm there was only a bruise, but the flush and burning sensation were gone.

In fact, there is something about this name Skinfairytale. We are very critical, but seeing this, we can only say: Well done! You certainly have made our lives easier while battling with atopic dermatitis.

You can take a look at all Skinfairytale products here.

This time in Slovenian cosmetics we will talk about a brand that makes very nice smelling organic kinds of butter for skin care. Butters is a Slovenian company specializing in the manufacturing of all kinds of butter by a cold process.

What are vegetable butters?

Vegetable kinds of butter are mainly a mixture of different triglycerides, which represent more than 98-99%, and other components (1-2%) like phytosterols, phospholipids, phenolic compounds, terpenoids, carotenoids, vitamin E. The composition is influenced by the botanical species and the subtype of the plant, climate, location, season, day, plant part and plant treatment on the ground and after transportation from the field and proper storage.

Vegetable butter consists mainly of fatty acids with 16 to 18 C atoms: palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic and linolenic acid. Butters consist of mostly saturated fatty acids. These have a higher melting point than unsaturated fatty acids, that’s why butters are solid at room temperature.

How Butters company produces their butters?

Kinezika company have developed a special process to manufacture kinds of butter by themselves. Two of the most common methods of obtaining oils and kinds of butter, a warm (standard) and cold process are known.

Usually, all kinds of butter are heated in order to pass from a solid aggregate state into a liquid, adding some other substances. But in this company butters are manufactured by a special cold process. By mixing kinds of butter are converted into a creamy texture. The creamy texture makes it easier to apply the product. A good side of the cold process is that they retain all butter’s special properties, which would be lost for sure by heating to high temperatures.

We tested all four kinds of butter that Butters released recently. Three of them: Toffee Butter, CBD Butter and Amaretto-banana Butter are based on shea butter. And one special butter – Pineapple Butter, which is based on the cupuacu butter.

We’re for something tropical, right?

Tropical Pineapple Butter is basically a cupuacu butter with coconut oil and pineapple aroma. The product just like a mousse, it’s soft and easily absorbed into the skin, without leaving a greasy feeling.

Cupuacu butter or Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter is an alternative to the problematic lanolin (wool sheep wax that causes many allergic reactions). Cupuacu butter is capable of retaining moisture, but at the same time, it penetrates very quickly through the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties and it’s suitable for vegans.

Interesting fact: Cupuacu butter is able to bind 440% of water. So, 1 kg cupuacu butter absorbs 4,4 kg of water.

Source: Fleck, C. A., & Newman, M. (2012). Advanced Skin Care – A Novel Ingredient. Journal of
the American College of Clinical Wound Specialists, 4(4), 92–94.

Effects of cupuacu butter

It’s an emollient that helps to increase the elasticity of the skin. In addition to emollient action, it also exhibits antioxidant and moisturizing effects. In fact, they call it “super humectant”. It makes the skin softer, more elastic and flexible.

As we have said many times, to oils and butters we can’t attribute SPF values, but many studies prove that they absorb harmful UVA and UVB rays. This is especially important in case of photo-aging because the skin is unintentionally protected from the sun. It calms our skin, which is why it’s also suitable for taking care of sunburned skin.

Cupuacu is suitable for the care of dry and oily skin.

How is this even possible?

1. Dry skin – contains phytosterols and sterols that are regenerative and have a beneficial effect on dry skin

2. Oily skin – this butter has the ability to moisturize, which is a MUST for every type of skin

Some use cupuacu butter to treat eczema and psoriasis. The fatty acid composition of this butter is special, it contains up to 35% oleic acid, up to 25% of lauric and stearic, up to 6.5% linoleic and fatty acid, which made it so special – called arachidonic acid (up to 4.5 %). Arachidonic acid is omega-6 acid, which is necessary for the functioning of cells in our body (nerve and immune cells, joint cells). It indirectly helps to reduce inflammation and wound healing.

Butters based on Shea Butter

Shea Butter is already well known.

The fatty acid composition of shea butter is quite different from cupuacu, containing up to 49% oleic acid, up to 38% stearic acid and up to 5% linoleic acid. The specificity of this butter is the high content of terpenoids (30,000 mg/kg) that acts as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. It also contains phenols that have antioxidant properties.

Due to the content of terpenes (in butter) in laboratories have been demonstrated anti-inflammatory and preventive antitumor activity. Antitumor action of the butter is not very accurate, but good prevention can’t hurt anyone. Because it’s regenerative it’s also very popular for the care of atopic skin it helps to establish a broken skin barrier. Unrefined butter has a strong smell (like goat’s milk) but that’s exactly that kind of butter has the best quality.

Interesting facts about Shea butter

Interesting fact # 1: Shea butter helps to prevent mosquito bites. According to a study, the probability of a mosquito bite was reduced by about 40% after applying Shea Butter. Especially in the summer, this would be a very good solution, right? We can probably just add a drop of essential oils of lemongrass or lavender and the unpleasant itching will be gone for quite some time!

Interesting fact # 2: Shea butter is apparently more effective in unclogging the nose when we catch a cold than conventional nose droplets.

All Butters products with shea are soft and spreads very well. After application to the skin, they are absorbed quickly and don’t leave a greasy feeling.

Which are the new Butters products based on shea?

CBD Butter – behind the name shea butter with hemp is hiding. Cannabis in cosmetics is becoming more and more popular because it actually has a positive effect on the skin. It very efficient in improving the condition of skin diseases.

Amaretto-banana Butter is butter that smells like ice cream. It has a sweet, but fresh smell. Very appropriate for cuddling.

Toffee Butter is shea butter with a caramel flavor. The smell of butter gives you the feeling that you are having a bath of caramel, but unlike the real caramel, you aren’t sticky and the feeling on the skin is pleasantly soft.

Which body butter do you like the most? Check out Butters.si for a good smelling body product!

How little does it take to get a new idea. An e-mail from a Slovenian cosmetic company called Koko cosmetics caused some brainstorming. We had decided to create a new category on our blog: Slovenian cosmetics. Why? We just want people to realize that there are a lot of small companies, that create wonderful cosmetic products.

Natural cosmetics and certificates

What makes natural cosmetics different from conventional? Ingredients, ofcourse! Properties of extracts, hydrolates and oil are the ones that make natural cosmetics so special. But cosmetic manufacturers are not limited by any legislation and law, so the manufacturer himself decides whether he will work according standards that are defined by certificates. On the other hand the manufacturer can just advertise his cosmetics as natural and doesn’t work according to standards.

On the field of natural cosmetics exist numerous certificates that are very different from one another. Even in Slovenia a cosmetic brand can recieve a ‘’natural cosmetics’’ certificate by an institute called Kon-cert that prescribe, that cosmetic products don’t contain disputable ingredients.

Tonic and cleansing milk

Why is goats milk as an ingredient so desired in cosmetics?

The data from history reveals that Cleopatra took baths in goats milk. So it’s obviously something on this milk. Goats milk has a few special properties, because of which it shows good effects on the skin.

  1. It doesn’t cause inflammation or allergic reactions (cows milk can cause allergic reactions) – very suitable for sensitive skin
  2. Contains lactic acid, which is a alpha hidroxy acid (AHA) – AHA stimulate skin proliferation, increase skin moisture and work as a keratolytic (they accelerate exfoliation)
  3. Has a proper ratio between omega-6 : omega-3 = 5:1 fatty acids – omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids show a really good effect on the skin, they help to restore the skin barrier especially on the individuals with skin diseases
  4. It’s rich with retinoids (vitamin A) – retinoids normalize keratinization and posess anti-ageing properties (concentrations in goats milk are too smal to show that properties)
Cream for sensitive skin

How about cannabis oil?

Cannabis oil is extracted from a plant named Cannabis sativa. Oil is rich with canabinoids, which are attributed with good effects on the skin. Cannabis oil is rich with omega-6 and omega-3 unsaturated fatty acids.

  1. Regulates skin inflammation – it exhibits anti-inflammatory properties with effect on immune system cells
  2. Can reduce pain and itchiness – stimulation of CBD2 in keratinocytes causes secretion of analgetic opioid peptydes, that reduce pain
  3. Regulates sebum secretion – with an effect on hair follicles it reduces sebum secretion from glands

Because of it’s anti-inflammatory properties it is recommended to people that suffer from skin disease’s such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and others. Because of it’s possibility to regulate sebum secretion and anti-inflammatory properties it is also good for acne-prone skin.

What is Koko cosmetics?

Koko cosmetics is a brand that creates 100% natural products. It combines unique properties of goat milk and Cannabis oil in all of their face creams. This two ingredients are enriched with addition of hydrolates, that are very good humectants.

Hydration cream Koko
How did their products do on a test?

For the testing we received: cleansing face milk, cleansing facial tonic and two face creams, one for sensitive skin named Madame Chamomile and one moisturizing cream named Lady Rose. To be honest none of us really likes the taste and smell of goats milk so we were concerned about the smell of the products. But let us tell you that yes, maybe creams have a little specific smell, but the other products smell like flower hydrolates.

All the products are packed in a quality, air-free packaging. This is so important when the products are natural, because the manufacturers are limited with preservative choices and that’s why this products are more likely to get a microbiological contamination.

We both have skin, that is quite hard to satisfy, since we get little pimples if the products does not fit our skin needs. The products did a really good job on a test, since we did not break out (yay!). Both of the creams are really moisturizing and the moisturizing cream does a really good job on greasy skin as well.

How did Koko products perform in a laboratory test?

This is where it gets interesting. We decided to test Koko cosmetics cream Madame Chamomile for sensitive skin. With the test we wanted to see whether the application on the cream on the skin will rise skin hydration. All of the measurements were made with a Corneometer – this is an equipment that measures hydration of upper skin levels.

Relative values of skin hydration are stated in arbitrare units and these units can not be equated with the percent of relative skin hydration.

very dry skin< 30 arbitrare units
dry skin30 – 45 arbitrare units
normal skin> 45 arbitrare units

We measured skin hydration before applying Koko face cream on colleague’s dry skin. After the measurement we applied the cream on the face for a half an hour to let is soak into the skin. After half hour we measured skin hydration again. This were the test results:

AreaSkin hydration before applying cream (in arbitrare units)Skin hydration after applying cream
(in arbitrare units)
Cheeks43,365,2
Forehead44,051,2

Skin hydration has risen after the application of Koko cosmetic product. We have to realize that the measurement’s weren’t made in the ideal environment, so they can deviate a little in a positivne or negative way. But after all the skin hydration did rise quite a lot.

Measurement with Corneometer
We came across another beautiful Slovenian brand

Koko cosmetics turned out to be a wonderful brand, that performed good at home and laboratory tests. Ingredients in Koko products are just brilliant.